by Eric Williams/photos by the author
Long before water was first heated into steam to turn a locomotive wheel, it was the artery of commerce. Whether by river or canal, conveyance on water was the most efficient way to move people and material, giving cities adjacent to it an important commercial advantage. Then came the railroads — which also chose the course of water, but for a different reason. Where water, with the aid of gravity, had found the best course through the terrain, its time-washed banks also created ideal routes for a railroad to follow.
Throughout this country, and the world for that matter, rail and water corridors are linked in the imagination of railfans. For us, names like Mississippi, Missouri, Columbia, Fraser, Platte, and Feather are more likely to conjure up a vision of a rail corridor than a waterway. And then there is the Hudson, the granddaddy of all river commerce arteries in North America, and the one which I believe to be most associated with the railroad.
We can thank the river’s passage through New York City, as well as New York Central Railroad, for that connection. The city has been a seat of power from its days as the colonial capital of New Netherlands to its present status as the media center of the world. The Central, headquartered in the city, heavily promoted its water level route up the Hudson, named a class of fast steam passenger locomotives for it, and gave the division the river’s name. While denizens of the city may seem overly provincial in their “empire,” the glorification of the river is justified as it and the surrounding valley has scenery that rivals anything the West can offer.
ABOVE: A Poughkeepsie-bound Metro-North train whisks commuters past Bannerman’s Castle on June 1, 2023. A drone opens up interesting vantages to combine the castle and railroad. Aerial photo
Besides its natural beauty, the Hudson also has a unique characteristic that none of the other rivers have — a tide that reaches 153 miles inland. The river’s change in elevation between New York City and Albany, N.Y., is less than the height of a full-grown man — just five feet. The Lenape, the Native American inhabitants of the lower Hudson, called the river Muh-he-kun-ne-tuk, which loosely means the “river that flows two ways.” Not only is this a fitting definition of the ebb and flow of the river, but an apt description of its role as an artery of commerce. While watercraft still play a significant role on the river, the railroad dominates.
Englishman Henry Hudson explored the river in 1609, becoming the first White man to navigate and chart it, placing it on a map as Noort Rivier (North River). He did so while working for the Dutch, who were the first European settlers of the river valley, giving many geographic places Dutch names that endure to this day. The British took possession of this entire territory in 1664 and renamed the river after their countryman who had explored it half a century before. During the American Revolution, the river was a prized artery that controlled movement into the interior, with the patriots establishing many fortifications in an effort to keep the British out. The remains of these forts are hallowed ground, but before the era of historic preservation, the railroad was allowed to build through several of them.
Another distinction of the Hudson River is as the cradle of steam-powered propulsion in North America. In 1807, Robert Fulton’s steamboat, the Clermont, made its first journey from New York City to Albany, marking the first time a steamboat was used in regular commercial passenger service. The Clermont’s journey revolutionized water transportation, demonstrating the potential of steam-powered vessels, and paving the way for their widespread use in the U.S. and beyond. Less than two decades later, in 1825, John Stevens ran the first steam-powered locomotive along the shore of the Hudson, in Hoboken, N.J. This was an experimental locomotive, which he ran on a circular track around his riverside estate. While it was not intended for commercial use, it was significant as one of the earliest, if not the first, demonstrations of steam-powered rail propulsion in the U.S.
ABOVE: Probably the most-photographed view of the Bear Mountain bridge is from the pedestrian walkway on the Route 9W bridge over Popolopen Creek. On October 24, 2010, a northbound train crosses the steel viaduct spanning the creek, which replaced the original two-track wooden trestle structure.
The first commercial rails were laid in New York state in the 1830s to connect the Hudson and Mohawk rivers, but it took until 1851 to complete the more challenging build up the east bank of the river, connecting New York City to Albany. This line was later part of a group of independent lines that were brought together in 1869 under the New York Central umbrella. NYC controlled railroad commerce on the river artery until upstart New York, West Shore & Buffalo Railroad completed a line on the west bank in the 1880s. Within a few years, NYC swallowed up this railroad as it didn’t like the idea of competition. The west bank became a major freight artery, while the east side primarily hosted passenger service.
The economics of railroading were especially tough for Northeastern roads in the 1970s, with NYC merging into Penn Central and eventually forming a core part of Conrail. During this period, the intercity passenger trains were taken over by Amtrak, with the commuter trains packaged under the Metro-North Railroad herald. When Conrail was split up in 1999 between CSX and Norfolk Southern, CSX received both lines along the Hudson River.
Sometime in the late 1880s, the railroad overtook steamboats to become the dominant choice of commerce on the river corridor and never looked back. Today, both rail lines are vibrant and see a lot of traffic. Dense passenger volumes cover the 143 miles from Grand Central to Albany-Rensselaer on the east bank, while the freight-only CSX River Subdivision on the opposite bank covers 131 miles from North Bergen Yard to Selkirk, N.Y.
ABOVE: From the bluffs of Fort Montgomery on October 26, 2013, a visitor watches a northbound Metro-North train in seasonal conditions that mimic the plaque describing the revolutionary river battle here. The fort offers engaging views of the railroads from many vantage points, but is also worth exploring to learn more about our revolutionary history.
The roads are good throughout the valley, with ample trackside access, but don’t bother to chase a train on the corridor — it’s impossible. Both rail lines may twist and turn as they follow the many curves of the river, but they still allow trains to move swifter than any traffic on the adjacent roads. Settle into a place or two on the river for a few hours and let the trains come to you.
Freight on the River Line is not scheduled, but a dozen or so trains roam the line during daylight, with early morning seemingly the busiest period. With the exception of coal, every commodity in CSX’s freight portfolio can be seen here, with intermodal making up about half the business. On the east bank, Amtrak and Metro-North Railroad trains are all scheduled, providing time to plan your locations and photo angles. In the field, close to real-time information can be obtained for both railroads through their mobile apps.
Both sides of the river have too many good photography locations to cover in the scope of this article, so I’m featuring some of my favorites. Whether you can dedicate a day or a week, the Hudson River offers plenty of opportunities to capture trains running through scenery that rivals any place in the West. I’ve only touched on a few locations; there are so many more. Hopefully, these images will bring out the explorer in you, as you seek your own special place on the river. After all, the spirit of exploration runs deep here. There is something special in this water…